For
both novices and nerds like me, shopping for perfume can be an awfully
frustrating retail experience. Perfume salespeople range from the desperately
solicitous to the rudely dismissive, and most stores (in New York, anyway) that
carry anything worth buying have simply too large a variety to sample without
suffering a serious case of nose fatigue. Worst of all is the frequently
unsound guidance dispensed by some salespeople: in the case of one department store
associate who I asked about a certain brand, this guidance was limited to
indicating which scents were “for gentlemen”
and which “for ladies.”
Fortunately
for fellow New York perfume junkies, there’s a remedy in MiN, an apothecary on Crosby street that stocks a diverse but tightly
edited collection of fragrances, many of which are exclusive to them, and an equally discerning selection of men’s grooming products. Mindy and Chad, the owners, have
a genuine interest in perfume and share their knowledge helpfully, as opposed
to imperiously. Even the space itself (a bit clubby and masculine; stately
ceiling height; lots of wood) is a welcome change from harshly lit department
stores and cramped upscale pharmacies.
Linari, one of the lines they
carry exclusively, is a relatively new line of four luxury fragrances. Eleganza Luminosa (an exceptionally
pretty and balanced feminine floral) and Vista
Sul Mare (a citrus-ozonic scent with a spicy floral heart and soft
amber-cedar base – talk about development!) were created by Egon Oelkers, whose
strong suits appear to be sophistication and reserved luxury. The more
interesting Linari fragrances to my nose are the two authored by Mark Buxton,
who can also do luxury but not without a deliberate twist. Hence the heady
herbal cocktail of absinthe, clove and sage that lifts the blandly woody heart of Notte Bianca, or the startling cherry-raspberry accord that opens the gourmand Angelo di Fiume and manages not to smell
like dessert.
All
of the Linari fragrances are exceptionally complex, smell of extremely high quality ingredients and definitely have some tenaciousness on the skin, but they
do seem very occasional and, for me anyway, too dressy to wear with any frequency. For
something a little more rough around the edges, I turned to Frapin, the French cognac producer,
which makes a line of perfumes also carried exclusively at MiN.
Admittedly
the neatly trapezoidal bottles with their birch wood caps is what lured me in,
but two of the scents kept me interested. Passion
Boisée embodies a very old-world elegance and masculinity, with sweet
spices (nutmeg, clove) to warm the citrus top notes, rum and glove leather to
butch it up a bit, and oakmoss, patchouli and cedar for a super-dry chypre
base. If I ever had what one could remotely call a ‘power lunch’ I would be all
over this.
Finally,
Terre de Sarment combines those same
sweet spices (this time nutmeg and cinnamon) with grapefruit, cumin, both
neroli and sweet orange blossom, a medley of resins, tobacco and vanilla. I
don’t particularly like the first fifteen minutes of this scent, which is all
spiced fruit, but it eventually assumes a mesmerizing oscillation between the
cool, smokey incense and myrrh and the warm, ambery sweetness of the vanilla
and benzoin. I wish the tobacco note were a bit earthier to give the dry down
more dimension, but it’s still constantly interesting.
MiN New York is on Crosby street between
Houston and Prince, in Soho. Among the other not-easy-to-find brands they carry
are L’Artisan Parfumeur, Parfum d’Empire, Parfums d’Orsay, Penhaligon’s, Geo F.
Trumper, CB I Hate Perfume, and Dr. Vranjes.
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